Photography & Article From Marty Davies
It has been on my bucket list to climb Mount Toubkal in Morocco for many years. It stands at 4167 metres. To put it in perspective, it is the same height as three Ben Nevis’s on top of each other. Due to issues with ISIS and laterally Covid I had to postpone this trip for 4 years. Finally I was given the green light to climb the mountain and I flew to Marrakesh in Morocco on the 18th May 2022. On flying over Morocco I was immediately struck by how baron the landscape looked and as far as the eye could see it was only desert.
After landing and waiting for two hours to get through passport control we were collected by our guide – Hamid and driven to our hotel. I was immediately struck by the heat – ‘42 degrees’. How on earth would we climb in this. When we arrived at the hotel It wasn’t exactly 5 star but it was comfortable and had air conditioning. We were made incredibly welcome by staff and guides. The following morning after a healthy breakfast of egg/ Yogurt/ dates we were bussed for about two hours to Imilil, a Berber village in the foot hills of the High Atlas Mountains. We exited the bus and were in awe of the beauty of Morocco and surrounding villages.
We then Walked through village and the bazaar’s. The smell of spices filled the air and local men sold us trinkets and necklaces as souvenirs of the trip. After walking through the village we hit the mountain path. The higher we walked into the high Atlas Mountains the cooler it became. In an instant and for the 1st time on the trip, it felt achievable. As we reached the higher paths we were briefed by Hamid our trusty guide. He is a local to the area and has climbed Toubkal safely on many occasions. He told us about High Altitude Sickness and what we should expect as the we climbed and walked higher. Slow steps and plenty of water. His advice was welcome.
We then made it to the entrance of Toubkal National park. An amazing place to be and an achievement on its own. As we kept walking the reality of what was ahead hit us like a steam train. I’d heard a few stories of climbers falling from the mountain and the sign said it all. We were all on our guard after this. Then we saw it for the 1st time. The summit of Mount Toubkal. In the photo below it’s the faraway peak and there was still quite a bit of snow on it from winter. Looking over the valley below. It was becoming cooler and cooler and the climb ahead was sinking in and becoming a reality. Ahead was our camp site of the night. The Toubkal refuge hut. Good food and shelter ahead. By this point we had been climbing and walking for over 8 hours. A few of the team were starting to feel the effects of being at altitude. We camped at around 3100 metres. We were served a traditional Moroccan mint tea followed by a 2 course meal. Throughout the day I had walked and talked to a lot of the team. You become fast friends with them. You are bonded by the journey and the like minded goal of summiting the the highest mountain in North Africa and the Atlas range. We were a diverse bunch coming from all walks of life and all over the UK. An amazing group of human beings and who I still keep in touch with.
At 3 am we were up and getting ready for the climb. I selected my Craghoppers pros stretch trousers and expolite down jacket. To keep me warm as the temperature had dropped to -5. After breakfast we all lined up ready for the climb ahead. It was decided at breakfast that for the first 200 metres of the climb we would require crampons as the snow and ice had became treacherous! This part of the climb I would describe as technical due to the the conditions we found ourselves in. Some of the other team leaders had decided to call the climb off due to high winds at the summit, but our trusty guide Hamid was happy in the teams abilities…. We cracked on. Head lamps were attached and we made for our 1st obstacle above the refuge…. the dreaded river crossing over 20 foot boulders. A less experienced members of the team threw the towel in there and then, I’d done my homework and knew how to tackle it.
After making our way through the darkness on the technical section, It can be an eerie feeling on a mountain in the dark, however I personally enjoy it. You deal with one foot in front of the other. Nothing else in life matters to you other than that exact moment. At around 6.30 am the sun began to rise and we could see the task at hand. We met and chatted to other teams who had taken the challenge. All excited / nervous at the prospect of summiting. I love climbing and trekking in snow and ice. It makes the mountain more beautiful and summiting more rewarding. Altitude and exhaustion had claimed another two of the team, who were taken back to base camp by the 2nd guide. They later recovered. When it gets tough on the mountain or life in general, I always have try to laugh and smile. ‘Cheerfulness in the face of adversity’. It lifts the spirit and takes you out of a negative headspace.
Finally the sun came up and the sun always lifts you’re mood on the mountain. It’s a natural uplift that I always wait for before any rash decisions are made on the mountain, during a night climb. After some time, we approached the final summit ridge of the mountain with about 150 metres to go. The feeling of accomplishment starts to creep in and a 2nd burst of energy drives you up. One team member was really struggling at this point. They could not heat up and their head was pounding. They thought the tank was empty. I have been in that position before on Mount Kilimanjaro. I thought the tank was empty, but the body is an incredible piece of kit. When you think you are on empty, there is still a quarter tank left. USE IT! We grabbed her and helped her up the last section.
WE FINALLY MADE IT TO THE SUMMIT! What a feeling. Four years in the making. Training and diet for the previous 4 months. Time away from my family and friends…… but it was worth it!!
Finally standing under the Toubkal pyramid, 4167 metres above sea level. I was delighted. Out of 15 who started this journey, 10 of us made the summit…. and too the 5 who did not summit, your are amazing. The decision not to go on is one of the hardest for a mountaineer. I salute them for knowing they had reached their personal summit and returned to base camp.
Below is a photograph of my climbing partner Darren and I. A great lad, friend and climber. This was his 1st high altitude climb and he thrived. I’m his police dad and trained him as a detective over a decade ago. Delighted with man he has become. After summiting any mountain, you are only halfway there. It’s time to come down and come down safely. After making it back to base camp and having some food. We then had a 16k walk back to Imilil Berber village, where we were staying the night in a geet ( traditional Berber house). All our kit is carted up and down the mountain by mules. These animals are amazing, Rugged and strong. The climb would be virtually impossible if it weren’t for them.
On the walk down we stopped at a riverside tea house for a drink and some food. I always look back at any mountain on the return. It gives you an amazing sense of achievement to see where you came from. The same goes for life…. After walking and climbing for 18 hours non stop, we finally made it back to the Berber village and an amazing meal. It was an early night as we were all exhausted. The following morning it was time to say goodbye to the Berber village and head back to the Mini bus and Marrakesh.
On the Final night we headed into the centre of Marrakesh. What an amazing place, with amazing people.
In life it’s easy to say ‘NO it’s to hard’ or ‘I can’t be bothered.’ Give yourself a goal to aim for. It Doesn’t have to be a mountain or an expedition. It can be going to the gym or a walk. We live in a society where we are attached to smart phones and TV. Believe me when I tell you there is nothing better in life than getting outside and becoming reattached to nature. We are part of nature and it’s time to return and remember what has been forgotten. Next time you are asked to get outside – JUST SAY YES!!!
I would like to thank Craghoppers, in particular Gill and Kai, for believing in me and sponsorship. A wonderful brand with amazing kit.